Kishanganj, India
Started the day by crossing the longest bridge in Asia & it was manic! The drivers are far worse here than in the south and the roads were awful too - one highway turned into a giant sand dune with absolutely no warning. We're both knackered - getting up at 5 am & riding till 7pm with a map that may as well be for another country is exhausting! Took ages to find a room tonight too - every hotel we found said they were full as they couldn't be bothered to fill in the tourist paperwork! Luckily we met Javed - the perfect Indian gentleman - who took us under his wing, made a nice hotel give us a room & then took us to the police station to register. East again in the morning - we're really close to the Nepalese border now, and head towards Banglesesh tomorrow.@
Bihar, India
The rickshaw did really well today - the first day since last Monday we haven't needed a mechanic. We've finished heading north and have made good progress east, with Dorian earning a whole 20 points for knocking an old man off his bicycle! Drove through more great villages & ate fab street food. At the first of 2 terrible traffic jams we had to fight our way through, a bloke in a passing car handed us a bit of paper he'd just written on after reading the charity stickers on our rickshaw - it read: I salute your effort!
Uttar Pradesh, India
Our rickshaw is battered, bruised and very dusty - a bit like us! It also broke down again today. Twice. We've now replaced the top bit of the motor after a hole blew through the piston and it seems to be running better, but we've had to skip Varanasi as we need to start heading east. This trip's not about the tourist spots though - and we have another excuse to come back again! Also need to find a welder tomorrow as the frame of the rickshaw seems to be coming apart. In a comedy moment, Dorian actually kicked the engine today but couldn't do nearly as much damage as these bloody awful roads are doing!
Madhya Pradesh, India
We were reunited with our rickshaw today - all fixed and running much better. The mechanic was brilliant - he fixed problems that no-one else could and all for less than 3 quid! We were also told of a great shortcut to Jabalpur (not in our atlas) so made it there easily and pushed on to Katni. We're about 350 km from Varanasi so up at dawn to make it for sunset.
Mukki, India
Today should have been easy - only 120 km to the tiger park. We didn't count on it being on the worst road in India though - our rickshaw took one look and decided against it! After push-starting it uphill and downhill more than 50 times over 30 km, we abandoned it in a friendly mining town and found a driver to take us to the park. Khana is beautiful and apparently we got really close to tigers (mum and baby) but they wouldn't show themselves. Saw loads of other gorgeous animals tho' and now relaxing in our lodge with a cold beer by the pool :)
Madhya Pradesh, India
The day started well & we were on track for Kanha NP (where the Jungle Book was set!) until the rickshaw died. Found some brilliant mechanics & soon had the whole village working on it. Back on the road by 1pm but 40km of dirt track spoiled any chance of us making it to the park, so we're spending the night in Balaghat & have a tiger safari booked at Kanha tomorrow. I don't think they get many tourists here - we were just dragged into a studio to have professional photos taken with some local guys - none of whom could speak any English!@
Maharashtra, India
Another long day pushing north while avoiding the big highways. Made loads of friends, got mobbed by school kids & have waved so much I feel like the queen! In Chandrapur tonight where there's a huge religious festival on, but managed to nab the last hotel room in town. Up early again tomorrow to start heading into tiger country :)
Andhra Pradesh, India
Finally made it to Hydrabad after 14 hours on the road. The rickshaw broke down for the first time today but we had it serviced for less than £2 and it seems to be holding up. Dorian's driving has been brilliant too - he's taken to it like a local. We've been blown away by the kindness of the amazing people we've met - what a country!
Karnataka, India
A slow start to the day with a flat tyre and obstinate rickshaw, but have travelled north through amazing desert landscape with no tourists in sight. Tried the national highway for an hour but got off as soon as we could as it was so dull & we couldn't see anything from up there! Beer o'clock now & Hydrabad tomorrow.
Karnataka, India
A fantastic day today. Set off at 6am and rode for 13 hours but just didn't make it to Bangalore. Highlights included monkeys & deer in Wyanad, gorgeous mountains, an insane tour of Mysore old town with a local Rickshaw racer called Master Blaster, and meeting loads of other amazing people. Staying in a tiny town tonight that seems to be completely veggie and heading North again tomorrow!
