Ladies & gentlemen, after a circa 2,600Km journey on rickshaws we finally made it to Kochi! It’s been an epic experience...we were perhaps a bit too well prepared so didn’t have much trouble, but even sharing the experiences of the other runners was amazing in itself.
I’d definitely recommend this trip to anyone wishing to experience India in a whole new way...doesn’t matter how many times you’ve been here!
We’ve had loads of good times, loads of happy people waving at us along the way and even a few extremely perplexed thumbs ups...
Here are a few pointers:
1. Horns are a must
2. Hooting in India is not a sign of anger...rather a “hey, how you doin’? Just gonna squeeze past ya here”
3. Ricks can be notoriously unreliable, but with the right amount of TLC they will get you anywhere...not particularly fast, but they’ll get you there
4. Horns are a must
5. Grammar/spelling is not a strong point in India...it was tough for me!
6. Respect the road hierarchy. Bus drivers are actual d******ds! But they’ll still give you a smile and a wave...
7. If you want Kamal in your team, the jury is still out on whether he is a worse backseat driver or actual rickshaw driver. Watch this space...
8. Dress like the locals (airy fully length cotton clothes) as opposed to tourists (shorts and tees)! The sun is brutal!
9. There is no place for road rage on Indian roads! Accept and enjoy the chaos...
10. Finally...did I mention horns are a must?!? (Not the kind that are adorned by oxen, but rather the kind that blares!)
Off we go...final 85Km odd to Kochi!! It’s been epic...2 weeks is not enough!
Day 13 - Now this was a true taste of the Rickshaw Run!
14th Jan also happens to be the birthday of one of our own team members so happy birthday Richard!
So we thought we had this whole thing sussed out and to cover the 200Km odd journey to Guruvayur we decided to leave at about 10am. We all had a nice lie in and enjoyed our brekkie. Ricks were loaded and we left the hotel just after 10 (minus the usual pomp we had been enjoying in North India!)
We had to make a stop at the ATM along the way so the team could reload their coffers and we were then on our way proper
The Kerala heat is unforgiving! The 36 degree heat was absolutely pelting is and so during one of the stops, we enjoyed some sugarcane juice on the roadside. It was amazing and I would highly recommend it! Even the cynics amongst us indulged and were impressed! A little bit further down Richard had an urgent bowel movement...and despite all appearances the juice had absolutely nothing to do with that!
We decided to cut out the highway and use a shorter route via Tirur. It was all going swimmingly as we made great progress. Cue the inevitable twist...we got into Tirur and hit a sea of people, cars and elephants (I make this last assumption based on the elephant dung on the roads...didn’t actually see any). Apparently we’d run straight into a 3-day elephant festival! Which is great if you don’t have a deadline. After moving 150 metres in the space of our and half...and with mechanical issues popping up on our ricks (which led to some of the guys pushing one of the ricks through the traffic and finally us making use of the tow rope!), we pulled over into a patrol station to assess our options.
As the traffic started dying out at about 7pm, and no hotel availability in Tirur the decision was made to push onto Guruvayur (60km out roughly) through the night.
Point to note...not all is as it seems in Indian Ponanni is actually (disappointgly?) a port town...
We made it for about 9:30pm...all in one piece! Point to note...bus drivers are w***ers, although they will give you a smile and a wave! After a good meal (Guruvayur’s very own version of KFC...Chicking!), a nice cool bath and a good night’s sleep we’re on the last 85Kms down to Kochi!!! Get in!!
Day 12 - Our longest drive to date! To make up for the lost time on Day 11 we had a 300Km drive ahead of us so we set off at 7am from Murdeshwar. Things were made a little complicated by Yash picking up a bug and being unable to keep anything in. Even a sip of water had him in bad shape. Credit to him, he soldiered through!
I have to say...the heat in the South is on a whole different level to what we were experiencing in the North! The higher humidity levels suck the energy right out of you and even the breeze whilst the rickshaw is moving tends to be warm. Plenty of fluids is the only answer we could come up with!
To save on time, during one of the tests, the ladies (& Tony) managed to pick up some samosas & fruits from a nearby shop along with some cold drinks so that was a nice light biting.
As always, we had the customary Rickshaw mechanical stop and this time it was loss of power in one of the beasts. We ended up at Sri Cavery Auto Works in Udupi and as soon as the mechanic opened the back hatch, he knew what the issue was. No no...the engine was still there, but somehow the team had managed to lose the bolt used to keep in the engine oil! Hence the oil has sputtered out along the way and another few hours with that would more than likely have meant a blown engine!
Fortunately that was a quick fix and a quick check of the oil levels on the other ricks and off we went again.
Thankfully there were not many other dramas other than a random drunk throwing some water on Sarah during another rest stop. I’d like to think he was just being friendly and helping her cool down!
Turns out Kerala voted in a communist state government and are huge fans of Marxism with picture of Che Guevara and the communist symbol dotted all about the place. The people are decent and I guess the state government’s resistance to allowing any industrial growth in the area is actually the reason for the beautiful landscape and the clean air.
We made it into our target of Kannur with plenty of daylight to spare and checked into Clyford Palace Inn. Excellent showers!! Really friendly people and the manager even hooked us up with a decent deal after we told him what we were doing and the charity we were supporting! Result!
One of Sachin’s friends took us out for a nice meal and we were back in for a fairly early night. A small lie in on Day 13 and hoping to cover about 200Km, leaving us with a very short ride of a couple of hours into Kochi on the 15th Jan! The end is nigh!
Day 11 - the day after the night before! Surprisingly there weren’t any sore heads...shows the drinking practice over the last week or so is paying off!
After a light breakfast (for most of us...I don’t really do light) we set off from Palolem for about 10am heading south on the NH66. We were enjoying the winding roads up until we got about 15Km out and got a phone call from Kate’s (the place we’d stayed in Palolem) to let us know that Yash had forgotten his camera on charge at the lodge. Joy!
So 2 rickshaws headed back while 3 stayed back to enjoy some chill time over some cuppas. We crossed paths with a whole load of other Rickshaw Runners who gave us very perplexed looks and some even tried really hard to kindly inform us that we were going the wrong way!
Go Pro retrieved, we caught up with the rest of the gang. Decision was taken to have a very quick lunch so as to make up for lost time. We found out soon enough that Indian roadside dhabas are not ‘fast food’ places where you should have take aways! After waiting close on an hour for plain parothas and french fries and getting the food neatly wrapped, we all went and sat in the stationary ricks to eat our food! I blame the heat getting to our heads!
We ended up in Murdeshwar to see the Shiva statue without further incident and decided to stay the night nearby. Early start for Day 12, but we definitely got some secure parking. Doubt anybody would try and get to the ricks with the God of Destruction overlooking...
Well looks like the camouflage worked! Pleased to report that the rickshaws and all their contents remain intact...
Day 10 - so this was supposed to be a short 70Km odd drive down to Palolem in South Goa for the mid-way party, which isn’t exactly at mid-way point, but this is India...no one cares about the particulars...
I wasn’t expecting much for the blog, but boy was I wrong! As always we departed with plenty of pomp and pictures.
The journey involves a ferry crossing (see if you can spot the team members...it’s whole new version of Where’s Wally?!). Unfortunately the ferry wasn’t big enough for our 5 ricks AND the Goan passengers so we had to leave a man behind...figuratively speaking of course (technically it was one rick, one lady & two men). They did eventually catch the next one over and the team were reunited. I didn’t see them, but I’m told the reunion brought our emotional hugs and a tear or two!
With the ferry crossing dealt with, we had a have to refuel and head towards Palolem. Along the way, we discovered Santa is actually from Margao (we saw his helicopter there...he apparently doesn’t use a sleigh these days). Unfortunately we don’t have a picture of Santa’s heli-sleigh...and that’s because as one of the rick’s tried to pull over so we could take a pic, they had a wee fender bender with a chap on a motorbike. Oops! Weird one as technically the guy should never have been undertaking, but they drive weirdly in India so I guess statistically it was inevitable. That issue was sorted...not entirely amicably as a crowd gathered that fuelled the situation, but there was some common sense in the crowd as well so it was all settled and we made the final 25Km odd over to Palolem rather solemnly.
Fortunately it was nothing a couple of cold beers, freshly cooked chips, Goan fish curry and the sweet sounds of Bonobo couldn't fix and it didn’t take long for spirits to rise again.
We’ve set up base at Kate’s Cottages and it’s a lovely little place. If you’re ever in Palolem then I’d highly recommend it...if nothing else they’ve had probably the best wi-fi connection I’ve experienced on this entire trip!
After some rest and dinner we all ended up at the Neptunes bar for a wee party with the rest of the Rickshaw Runners (well those that actually made it to Goa!). The party itself was nothing to write home about, but the setting was pretty amazing. The bar is essentially on an outdoor dance-floor overlooking the ocean...unfortunately my photography skills weren’t good enough to do it justice and so again, use your imagination people!
Now we head out onto our final few days towards Kochi...
OK...so I know there wasn’t supposed to be a Day 9 update, but I just had to let y’all know about a ‘Greek’ spot called Thalassa (if you don’t already know about it!). Awesome venue setting and excellent food!
I was told Goa is a popular spot for celebrities...& Bipasha Basu’s name Was being thrown about. So imagine my disappointment when the only ‘celebrity’ we saw was Dev from Coronation Street! I couldn’t even place him until someone actually asked him! Damnit Goa...I want a refund!!
Day 9 was all about a lie in, no rickshaw riding and chilling! A few drinks after Thalassa...Anyone visiting Candolim should check out DJ Russel at Le Meriden/Taj
A good night’s sleep then it’s off to Palolem on Day 10 for the mid-way party!
Day 8 - a much mellower affair...
We started off from Kankavli all nice and fresh and just a short way out stopped for breakfast at a roadside dhaba. I think it’s safe to say the group is now totally sold on chai and butter pav!
We maintained a steady pace and made it into Goa late morning and were at our hotel in Candolim for early afternoon! Shattered! Laundry sorted!
Resh and Tony then took us over to one of the shack’s with a promise of amazing food...they did not disappoint! We had a feast fit for a king, including huge lobsters and king prawns! Stayed there and watched the sun set
A quick freshen up and we headed over to The Stone House bar for a few evening drinks...and for those of us who still could, eat a little bit...
Great end to the day and now for one day of absolute chilling so no updates for Day 9 as I will officially be on holiday with my feet up enjoying the best of what Goa has to offer (under a shade of course!)
Nothing like a cheeky photo op to appease the police...although one of them didn’t look particularly impressed!
