Day 10
So after 9 days straight of driving we decided to stay one more day in Goa before heading off to continue south. We have around 750km left of the journey now and the roads should be a lot better.
We started the day with some breakfast on the beach. It’s a truly stunning place and the weather is so good. 33 degrees! Sians finally started to take of layers of clothes and isn’t wearing jumpers anymore 😂
The rest of the day was just relaxing on the beach, swimming in the sea and drinking beers.
Once we’d had enough of the sun we headed into town. We needed a button and our Adventurist badge stitched onto our jackets that we bought at the start of the rally, whilst we were there we thought we would add an India badge too.
In the evening we headed back to the beach to watch the sunset. As well as dogs, the cows had now joined us and with a beer we all chilled out and watched the sunset.
Evening food was seafood, lobster, red snapper, oysters, squid and barracuda. I smashed through a chicken tikka masala, rice and a naan for good measure. Tomorrow we continue the trip. Heading south along the coast road to Udepi.
Day 8
So a little behind with blogging because we’ve not had had much WiFi.
Day 8 of the trip and we aimed for Goa, not sure how far we would get because it was just over 500km away.
With Simon now at his best we hit the roads and just drove. Because we all hated Pune so much we left at 4:30am to get ahead start. The roads were motorways so relatively smooth for India, but we still had endless amounts of crazy lorry drivers to contend with.
The hours past by and so did the miles. With a quick stop off for a McDonald’s we got straight back on the road.
We managed 407km before we started to lose the light. Driving through a national park we stumbled upon a jungle hotel and took a 3km track into the middle of nowhere then all of a sudden we came across this beautiful jungle resort complete with elephant and horses. The hotel manger done us a deal on the rooms as we were the only guests bar one other couple and after a quick shower we went for food. Afterwards they lit us a really large fire and we sat around it and chilled. Such a peaceful little place.
We all went to bed happy knowing that in the morning we only had a few hours drive before we hit the beaches of Goa.
Day 7
We left Nashik all suffering from the night before. With thick heads we left and headed towards Pune.
I should have known that the day was about to go down hill when we went through the first toll. In India, rickshaws don’t pay and there is sometimes a lane for motorbikes that we can shoot down. This time though we ended up in the over sized loads queue, as we approached, the barrier went up and team short black and skinny went through, I followed but probably shouldn’t have assumed that the barrier would stay up. Half way through the bloody thing smashed down into Simon, came through the side narrowly avoiding Sians face. Now at this point I probably should have stopped, but I didn’t. I just continued to drive and ripped the boom arm off. I’m not sure what happened next as I kept the throttle on and didn’t look back. Sorry Indian toll lady.
About 25km into the journey we started to loose power and the engine started to splutter. We pulled over and I quickly changed the fuel filter hoping this would fix it. After a few more miles it was still doing it so we pulled over again and changed the spark plug. This seemed to work..... for about 50km then the problem returned.
We pulled over at a garage and the guy tried to clean the carb but he didn’t really seem to know what he was doing and just made it worse. Now it wouldn’t even start. Eventually we got it running and made our way to the next garage, they told us there was a rickshaw specialist 10km away so we headed over.
By this point I was bored of dealing with it so I went for tea and a banana and left Sian to explain what the problem was haha.
When I returned an hour later they had stripped and cleaned the carb, but that hadn’t worked and they were then messing about with the HT lead. Eventually they found out that the issue was the coil and this was replaced and Simon was once again running smoothly. All for the pricely sum of £3.50.
Next stop was McDonalds, it had been a while since my last one so we planned a detour to stop for dinner. I can highly recommend the mcspicy chicken sandwich. After some team photo we headed off again.
We really needed to get the miles in but an hour later we hit Pune at rush hour. The place was absolutely mental. Like beyond anything I have ever seen before. Luckily for me I had a professional driver at the handle bars.... Sian.
On a three lane motorway, seven lanes of congested traffic tried to work there way through. It was carnage. Then just 5km from our hotel Simon let out an almighty backfire. The guy on the motorbike next to us literally thought he had just been shot. Then another one, and another one. We finally made it to the hotel sounding like world war three had just kicked off. By this point we were tired, stressed, hungry and the last thing I needed right now was to have to try and find a mechanic. I started to look at the engine one component at a time and soon found that the HT lead was broken, quick repair and Simon is once again running smoothly (well as smoothly as a Tuktuk can)
The hotel wasn’t quiet as nice as the photos made it out to be. In fact it was absolutely disgusting. The sheets and pillows were dirty. The window was hanging off, the bathroom window was fixed open. It was awful, We even had cockroaches keeping us company.
We decided to go for a walk into the town, on the way in we spotted a man laying by the side of the road. We walked past and thought he was just sleeping. On the way back he was still there. Motionless by the side of the road. We sent in the bravest member of the group...Sian, to see if he was dead, she kicked his foot and nothing..... we spoke to some locals who didn’t seem that bothered that there was a dead guy laying next to them. Eventually some teenagers came over and we spoke to them, one of them went over and nipped his ear, there was some movement... turns out he wasn’t dead after all just very very drunk. Moral of the story is, don’t get pissed and pass out around Sian as she will have you buried before you come round.
Back at the hotel we got out the sleeping bags and tried to get some sleep. We planned an early morning start, around 4:45am as we need to get to Goa. Trouble was the hotel room had glass windows into the corridor and the corridor had lights on.
Pune, you have been the worst place I have ever visited, your city sucks, your roads suck and so do your hotels.
Day 6
Today was all about wine. We started the day 180km from the vineyards and so off we tukked as fast as we could. After a quick breakfast stop and trying to explain that I wanted a fried egg sandwich which eventually came out covered in spice and cheese, we hit the roads and headed to Nashik.
We booked ourselves into a very nice 5* hotel for the night, quick shower and we hit the bar! A playboy bar haha.
After a few beers and note importantly some chicken and sausage (we have been full vegetarian since we got here as the meat is a bit rough) we grabbed an Uber and headed over to sula vineyard. The wine flowed, the cheese and biscuits kept coming and then already very drunk we had a tour and wine tasting experience.
We followed that up with more wine and some very spicy chicken wings.
Back at the hotel we went back up to the playboy bar and continued drinking till I physically couldn’t drink anymore haha.
Yesterday was an expensive day for India. I think we all spent more yesterday than we have in the entire trip so far lol, but it was worth the headache I had this morning.
30
We are still chasing our tails a little bit as we try to push on to get to Goa by the 9th. Currently about 700km away. Fingers crossed for some another roads tomorrow as we need to make up some time.
Day 5
Yesterday was all about mileage. We needed to make up some time if we are to get to Goa a day early so we can have a day off from driving. We have a party on the 10th so the aim is to get there by the 9th so we can have the whole day to enjoy Goa.
First stop of the day was to visit the statue of unity. The tallest statue in the world. Standing at nearly 600ft! 100km later we arrive, we encounter our first check point where the police wanted to check our passports and driving permits. He then informs us that the statue closes on Mondays....doh.
Anyway, we hit the road again and found some fairly decent roads to eat away at some of the miles.
We stopped in a random town to grab some fruit and got absolutely mobbed by the locals for selfies. What should have been five mins took nearly 45 by the time we got away again.
Nearly 300km later, in the dark we eventually stumbled upon a hotel, after a little bit of negotiating we got 4 rooms for about £55. Tomorrow we head to the vineyards!
Day 4
We left early again to try and make up some time. Still freezing cold in the mornings. The sun must come out soon as I’ve practically worn the same clothes since we got here.
We got around 70km in to the journey and we stopped to get chai and breakfast. Unfortunately they weren’t doing good but with the help of google translate we managed persuade the guy to let us use his stove to cook the remainder of our eggs, he even went into the field and picked us some carrots and radishes to go with them. As always, the family came out and we had many selfies and I completed another family photo shoot.
When we can to pay the guy didn’t want any money, he said it was his treat. We paid anyway, but the people in India really are the most kind hearted, genuine people I have ever come across.
We waved goodbye and headed on to our next destination, the one no one can pronounce, Ahmadabad (I know it’s easy, but still we get it wrong)
About 20 mins in we had our first breakdown. Simon slipped out of gear and a few pops and bangs later we came to holt and the engine died.
After a few mins we tried starting it and the engine now has a nasty rattle. We were in the middle of nowhere at this point so we carried on. It seems to be running Ok so we shall see how it goes.
Ahmadabad was a huge city, tall buildings, big houses, shopping malls etc. We found a large restaurant and stopped for some lunch, the sun was out, shorts and flip flops are finally being put to use!
As we left, the asking for selfies is becoming more persistent. They are now pulling up beside us and asking us to pull over, when we say we are in a rush and have to carry on they either have the selfie whilst moving or they literally cut you up and try and get you to stop. It’s crazy. Yesterday our tuk tuk was like a mobile selfie unit.
270km later we arrived into Vadodara. We’ve pulled back some miles.
We’ve also realised that Gujarat is a dry state and alcohol is illegal....we won’t tell the about the case of kingfisher, bottle of vodka and the four bottles of whiskey I have in the back....
Day 3 we left at 6am, still dark we pushed on through the mountain roads. The lights on a tuk tuk are absolute garbage but we carried on as we needed to make up some time.
After about two hours we finally made it too Udiapur. It’s a beautiful city with a huge lake.
After watching the local drunk balance a bike on his chin we found a juice bar and had some smoothies, muesli and cheese toasties.
The problem is everything takes way linger in India. Like sooooo long. Two hours later and a massive traffic jam later (we caused) we finally left.
We really needed to get some miles on but the roads were so bad. Literally just dust roads so progress was very slow. In one town we passed through we came round the corner to find a man laying face down in the road. At first we thought he had been hit by a car, but once we got close we realised he was just pissed.
Shaun from team short black and skinny picked him up and sat him on the side. He didn’t seem that happy that we had woke him but at least he was safe.
We pressed on but again we started to run out of light. We stopped in a small town to get snacks and water and found that there was a hotel so we decided to call it a day.
We started talking to the locals, one man tried to sell me some lovely antique doors and another went to get the whole family out for a family photo shoot.
We then found the local barber and all the boys had a beard trim before dinner.
We are currently about 100km behind where we wanted to be right now but hey ho.
Day two on the road, we left jodhpur with the hope of getting to udaipur.
Still freezing cold we are fully wrapped up in blankets as we travel through the morning.
First stop of the day was a huge water tower. Seeing as it’s India it’s not locked and we can climb to the top. The view was incredible.
We set off again and soon found a town where we stopped to get snacks and sweets for the kids. I got talking to a chap who invited us to his house for coffee. We chatted about our trip, met his brother and his 96 year old mother who wanted us to stay for dinner. Unfortunately we had to move on. We asked him where we could buy eggs and a pan from so he jumped on his scooter and took us to the market.
We bought bread, pans, plates and eggs (from a shoe shop) we drove about another 20km and then stopped by the lake to light a fire in my little stove and make lunch. As always in India we soon drew in a crowd and the locals came to laugh at us cooking.
We then pushed on as we wanted to visit a world famous temple in Ranakpur. The route was tough and the poor tuk tuks were really struggling with the steep hills but a few hill starts later we rolled in to the temple car park.
It was an unbelievable place, the building was so beautiful and the detail in the carving must have taken years.
We left there and soon realised we were never going to get to Udaipur in time. We were still 70km away, it was getting dark and cold. We suddenly turned a corner and there was an amazing hotel ahead, so we decided to call it a night and leave early in the morning. Day two completed.
So day one and 270km under our belt.
We left early from jaisalmer and headed out of the city for our first journey to jodhpur.
We’ve buddied up with the great guys from team Short, Black and Skinny which is making the adventure a lot more fun along the way.
First stop after about 50km for some chai, and to warm up. Heading south now so hopefully the weather improves.
The roads were pretty good leaving the city but they soon deteriorated and it was a game of dodge the pot holes, As well as the cows, camels, dogs, bikes, lorries and goats.
We stopped for lunch in a small village where a local went to find us some food. We ate lunch and talked to one guy who could speak good English. He was the local doctor apparently....
food was amazing, but also very spicy.
A few fuel stops later and we were heading into jodhpur, light was almost gone and it was one of the most mentally draining rides ever. The city is mental, it’s busy and the roads are terrible, but we got there and we are all in one piece.
Simon the Tuktuk did a good job on day one, let’s see what day two shall bring.
New Year’s Eve - Jaisalmer
So during the day we continued to pimp our Tuk Tuk 🛺 then headed back to our hotel to get ready for a our party. During the day I’d bought myself a new jacket to wear, I look like a dictator (or maybe just a dick)
The Party was just as mental as the country. Indian dancers, loud music and lots of alcohol.
Half way through the party the King of Jaisalmer rocked up to join the party, along with some of his guards. We went and said hello and had a chat.
At midnight the fireworks started and the celebrations continued. I decided that I needed to be the first person to shake the kings hand of 2020, quick kiss with Sian and I was off.... mission accomplished ✅ 👑
We continued to party till around 3am when we headed on the walk back to our hotel. As we passed the restaurant where we had eaten earlier we popped our head in the door to wish them a happy new year. We were then invited in to join in the celebrations.... cue Bhangra dancing, shisha pipe, and lots of selfies....
I then told them how in England after a night out you get food... my plan worked and they headed into the kitchen to cook us some food.
Finally back in bed at around 4am.
The craziest New Year’s Eve ever and some amazing memories.
The next morning we headed back to finish prepping for the start of the adventure. Last minute checks, fixing lights, making side panels and making Simon more homely. Blankets and most importantly, beer and snacks added. In India, every shop sells crips so we added some of those too.
I think we’re ready for what is going to be the start of a mental two weeks. As I write this we are two hours away from starting this epic 3500km journey south through India. Nervous, maybe stupid, but bloody hell im excited.
🛺 🇮🇳
(Actually just finished day one but the WiFi was so crap this morning it wouldn’t send haha)
