DAY 11

**JAIPER**

We decided to have a day of rest here in Jaiper and, as with every day off, it was an opportunity to get some maintenance for the rickshaw.  For the last few days we had developed a marked slew under heavy breaking which we decided was not a good thing, so it was off to the nearest mechanic to get the brakes checked.

Garages and mechanics are a little different here - rather than have premises as such, they have a section of curb space near to shops selling parts.

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 Whilst we were there we thought it would be prudent to change the gearbox oil and, judging by the sludge thatwas drained out of it first, it was a good job we did.  It hasn't escaped us that we were given a dog of a rickshaw to start this challenge and we will be handing back a super sweet street cruiser.

 

So, the brakes looked fine but we had them changed anyway. 

 

The gearbox was bathing in Castrol's finest and we were ready for the next leg to Jodhpur.

That evening we went out for a meal with the Irish lads at Jaipers finest revolving restaurant (it's all relative). 

 

Unfortunately it was a dry restaurant but, undeterred, we ordered out food then dashed down to the bar on the 9th flor for some much needed refreshment, leaving only when the waiter came looking for us to tell us our food was ready.  It was slightly unnerving to find our table wasn't where we had left it, but at least we had a brand new city vista to look at.

Sleepy and full, we headed back to our very comfortable hotel for much needed sleep.

 

DAY 10

**Agra to Jaipur**

A very unsociable 0500 alarm call kicked off the day so that we could make it to the Taj Mahal for sunrise.  Slightly irrelevant as it was thick cloud and rain.  Off we went regardless, tuxcedos secreted in shoulder bags ready for the money shot.  After finally geting through security, who were very interested in Johnny's rubber duck, we were treated to the magnificent sight of the Taj Mahal.  Even through the rain it was a sight to behold and we quickly jumped into our tuxcedos for our photo shoot. 

 

 

 

 

Surprisingly all of the US tourists thought we were getting married (do they really wear that stuff for weddings over there?) and the Japanese were very keen to get their picures taken with us.  Taj done, we adjourned to a travellers cafe for a hearty breakfast in order to prepare ourselved for the long, boring and wet journey that lay ahead.  Only once were our new-found 2-stroke mechanical skills required, although surprisingly for another teams Tuk.  The first time they had broken down.  One quick fix later and we were back on our way reaching the wonders of the Pink City by 1600.  Luxury!

We booked in to the Atithi hotel in central Jaipur and can't recommend the place highly enough.  For 15 pounds per room per night it's an absolute bargain and is easily the best place we have stayed so far.  So good in fact that we have decided to stay here for 2 nights to regroup and recoup.  Maybe the Lonely Planet isn't out of date after all.

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DAY 9

**Kanpur to Agra**

We awoke to find that we'd been abandoned by our fellow Runners from the day before.  The 2 hours we had overslept and numerous missed calls and texts is not mitigation for their betrayal!

Back on solo ops, we left Kanpur behind and made great progress on what was, on paper, a relatively short leg.  3 hours in, with Sweyn at the helm, we came to a grinding stop.  May I take this opportunity to point out to interested readers that of our numerous break downs, Alsop has been in the hot seat for each!  Work out the stats on that Sweyn. 

Old hands at this annoying business, we flaged down a farmer's stretch Tuk and rigged up a tow line for the 10km journey to the next village. 


A nice view of a cow's arse... 

A fee 3 quid kept the tow driver happy and we once again went through the ritual of explaining our problem and making friends with the locals.  A very competent mechanic identified the problem in a jiffy and set off in the back of a pedal rickshaw to get us our second new clutch.  In the meantime quite a few of the local boys took a particular shine to Johnny and took it in turns to pose for photographs with him on their mobile phones.  Never one to miss a stitch up opportuninty, AJ made sure he got a snap too. 


Jon's new best friend 

A 4 hour delay meant another drive at night in torrential rain to arrive in Agra at around 2000.  The advance party had sorted the hotel for us and we rounded off the day together with a night cap on the roof bar, overlooking the Taj Mahal.

DAY 8

**Varanasi to Kanpur**

Hotel Surya in Varanasi is a converted palace which used to belong to the King of Nepal.  A suitable place for a relaxing few beers after the events of the previous day.  The place had drawn Rickshaw Runners like bees to a honeypot and so after gathering for a team breakfast, of we went in a convoy of 6.  If we broke down again, at least we'd have some help.

Typically the day went without a glitch, for the most, in the warming Indian sunshine.  Lovely open roads and about 10 cameras per Tuk Tuk ensured this day, which passed by in a flash, literally, was great fun for all.  Unfortunately for the Tuk Tuk engulfed in tidal wave trick we performed with a passing lorry, no cameras were rolling.  Monsoon rains leave a lot of standing water and it's a damn shame that all we had document the incident was a very shocked Johnny, Sweyn and AJ (Sweyn and AJ actually thought I'd crashed into a river!), and couple of the Irish teams in stitches behind.  All good ammo for beers later though. 

Our destination for the day was a hotel on the outskirts of town with a seedy little basement bar.  Our Irish companions struck a fantastic deal for us exposing our Indian hotellier to his first dose of the Blarney.  Eager to recoup their funds somehow, not one round of beers in said seedy bar went by without some attempted robbery.  Luckily, a keen eyed northern bloke in the team ensured they toed the line.

The bar closed at 2300 sharp and it was off to our very cosy room to rest up for the following day.

DAY 7

**PATNA TO VARANASI**

0445 was an early alarm call by anyones standards but we were keen to get on the road and get some miles under our belt.  Our enthusiasm was only sightly dented by it taking 20 mins to get our engine started, but it was a great run out of the city which was only just starting to stir.

With kid leather gloves, we caressed our new and improved 'shaw along the NH30 towards Varanasi, not wanting to do anything that might induce a breakdown of any sort.  The engine was purring like a kitten and we were smugly ticking off the miles and enjoying the view as we went along our merry way.

About 100 km in we stopped for a refuel under a nice shady tree next to a small village.  Imagine our surpise when we came to leave and couldn't get the engine going again.  The usual charade of semi professional spark plug gazers ensued but to no avail. 

 

After about 3 hrs pulling everything apart, cleaning, blowing, cursing, checking and reassembling again, we had practically been adopted by the village.  Eventually, in desperation, they flagged a passing pickup truck and with about 25 people pushing, pulling and shouting, we got the thing up onto the truck and we were off again - 10km back up the road we had just come from to the nearest garage.  We have had some strange looks on this journey so far but none quite as strange as when we were all sat in our usual seats riding the Tuk on the back of a lorry!  The village we arrived at was your typical lawless Bihar hangout but with an army of eager volunteers to help us dismount our steed from it's temporary home.  After a quick spark plug change (unbelievable this was actually the problem this time) we were encouraged on our way in a far too energetic manner which to us spelt impending doom.  So with wheels spinning, sort of, we left the building crowds and headed back up the oh so familiar road.

Ater promising ourselves that we would never go nocturnal again, the draw from Varanasi was enough to instigate another night driving session in the rain.  Out torches and eyes on stalks!

 

 

DAY 6

**Patna**

Having paid so much for a hotel room we decided not to get up at 5am to make it to the next stop but instead, treat our Tuk to some TLC.  We knew of a dedicated rickshaw repair shop in town and took it there for a full 'service' again, with only the medium of mime to describe various clunks and shakes we were concerned about. 

 

 The location left a little to be desired, but 3 hrs later we had an absolutely perfect machine - even the headlight was fixed.  Happy, we headed back to our hotel for beer and pizza and a stint on the internet updating the blog.

Tomorrow is an early start for a long trek across badlands towards Varanassi, but at least we now have a chariot we can believe in.