Charis Beaton

Rajasthan, India

Just waiting for our flight from Jodhpur to Delhi, which is, of course, late. Have already been questioned about the 'handcuffs' in out luggage, but turns out it was only the bike lock! Going for one more walk around the rubbish heap that is Delhi later and home tomorrow! We're very excited about getting back to somewhere with a rubbish collection, hot water, real orange juice, food that doesn't try to kill you, and soft beds.@

Jaisalmer, India

THE FINISHING LINE!!! 472km from this morning and nearly 3,000km since the first day we have finished! Fourth overall and first of the teams that did not go along the faster route through Nepal, only through India. Nearly fell off at the last hurdle as Charis cut her foot falling through a wooden ladder trying to write our name on the finishers board and then Matthew nearly fell of the replacement! Now off to sit by the pool with a beer!

Phalodi, India

What we thought were going to be awful roads have really surprised us and turned out to be only slightly potholed, so we have reached Phalodi at 12.45. We have decided to push onto the end in Jaisalmer rather than hide in a hotel all afternoon away from the unblinking stares of the locals. Let's hope the road is ok from here, the guide book does say it's rubbish!

Rajasthan, India

Short trip today, with Charis doing the bulk of the driving and no visits to any mechanics. All good preparation for what could be a very long day tomorrow as we attempt to reach Philodi having left the major highways. In other news, we did see a crash involving a truck doing a three point turn on the motorway (to drive the wrong way) and a car already driving the wrong way, which was interesting.

Uttar Pradesh, India

Well it seems we were properly shafted in Bodh Gaya, where the so called mechanic 'fixed' our broken wheel for lots of cash. It turns out he didn't. So it meant we broke down again on the way to Agra, but we happened to break down right outside a mechanic and were taken in by a man and his lovely family for Chai and food, and they gave us gifts and refused to accept anything in return. As a wise woman (mum) once told me - everything happens for a reason!@

Uttar Pradesh, India

today's list of things trying to fall off includes one wheel, the new exhaust and the fuel tank. The first is now held on by properly tightened nuts while the other two are now held on by bits of bungy cord! We are still moving though so can't complain. Actually, I can: it's too bloody hot!

Uttar Pradesh, India

Arrived in Varanasi today with an increasingly noisy rickshaw, discovered the cobbled exhaust repair has now come lose, but luckily we have now located a proper exhaust and mechanic to try again at sorting it out. Had a quick wander around the Ganges and stumbled across 4 dead bodies waiting to be burned! The Ganges is very high due to the monsoon so we couldn't do much walking. Off on a boat trip at Dawn tomorrow to see the pyres from a different angle n