Made It!

> A very brief entry to confirm that at around 9pm local time last night we made it to Ulaan Baatar in a rather disorganised but happy way. All seven remaining cars made it, although Jamie Mac's van had to be towed by some helpful Portuguese guys in a Ford ambulance. For my Leyland ambulance - the Beast - the last 48 hours were a roller-coaster 'will we make it will we not make it', with the engine cutting out completely around 300k from the finishing line, just about the same time as my body went into 'shut down' mode being hit by a bug. I spent 24 hours in a sleeping bag with my fellow passengers resolving various mechanical problems with the help of various building workers and others. Our glorious entry into Ulaan Baatar was a little tarnished by not being able to find the finishing line (it had closed down for the night) and being semi-arrested by traffic police who objected to flashing lights, celebratory sirens and people sitting on top of vehicles). They put us under police escort and took us to a parking lot to get us off the streets! But it all ended well with a big meal and a shared Cuban cigar; I have slept in a hotel bed and feel a lot better for it.

> I'm working on a fuller account to be posted in the next few days, with I hope, tons of pictured. Meanwhile, thanks to all of you who have read this and sent messages of support!

> Here's a little evidence of the 'roads' we've been on

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> Here's our arrival in UB

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> Celebrating in one of Ulaan Baatar's (many) 'Irish pubs'!

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> Earlier that day, on the outskirts of UB (we were the first to arrive, and waited for the rest of the convoy to catch up): Harris & Hugo (from HMS Janner) and Nick (from Great Canadian Beavers).

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> Even earlier that day, Nick high-fives with the local kids...

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> ...and I am fascinated by gers that have their own solar panels and satellite dishes...

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Rubtsovsk, Russian Federation

I've had a look under the ambulance. I'm pretty bad on using the right words for mechanical bits and pieces, but I think the things that are shot are the shock absorbers, the suspension being fine.. The shocks are big fat rubber covered cylindrical things which say 'Made in England'@

Rubtsovsk, Russian Federation

The loss of rear suspension yesterday was pretty bad. We were on pot-holed roads which made it worse. Each bump was magnified into what felt like a small explosion and the contents of the ambulance, me included, were shaken up mercilessly. Somehow the top came off my tin of spare engine oil and Nick's muesli broke out from the 'food cupboard' so that there was an 'oil and muesli' disaster area. Worse, close to the Russian border the shaking got so bad the the (locked) back ambulance doors were thrown open, the infernal noise being so loud I didn't realise. A number of plates and the kettle disappeared out the back, as did the 10 litre petrol jerry can (but not the 20 litre one, luckily). The cafetiere was also smashed. A setback but not a disaster I hope! I am in the Rubtovsk garage now, a lot of guys are looking at it, but I don't yet know the verdict.

Region of Altai, Russian Federation

Absence makes you fonder: incredibly I have grown to love British petrol stations! They have mastered the art of simplicity: you put petrol in, you pay, you go. No-one else on our travels seems to have got it. In most places you first have to work out if they accept credit cards, and if so, which. Many station say they accept cards, but when you ask, say 'nyet'. The salesman or lady, hidden behind a tiny window, usually then says something like 'cesh, monee'. Next you have to tell them how many litres you want, and pay. Then you go and put the pump In your tank. Then you have to fins out how to activate it. Sometimes it is activated remotely by the hidden salesperson, sometimes you have to press a button (usually hard to find) and squeeze the pump trigger, and sometimes just squeeze the pump trigger. Often you underestimate or overestimate how much petrol you need. I've had the petrol gushing out all over me. Sometimes they give you cashback if you overestimated, more often they look the other way. Some give you a big smile, 'turisti, da?' others look impassively fatalistic. I really miss the concept of just 'filling it up' and paying the price for a full tank.

Region of Altai, Russian Federation

Re-entering Russia now, kust after midnight local time. Border crossings may be a tiny bit easier at night. The rear suspension has almost entirely gome and driving the Beast has become a bone-shaking hell. Everyrhing in the back has been tjrown all over the place. I am going to have to get to a Russian garage asap. Meawhile, I have been contacted by a team that lost their car in Poland. They have flown from Moscow to Byisk and i have offered to pick them up there for the final leg through Mongolia. The team (three guys) is HMS Janner.@

Pavlodar, Kazakhstan

Slept in a field between a motorway and a factory. Quite a bit of rubbish around, 'green' conscoiusness is not terribly high. Some Kazakhs wave and toot when they see us. We had filter coffe for breakfast, an incredible luxury. We are out of the heat wave now, it gets quite cold at night.@

Pavlodar, Kazakhstan

We took a long time to get out of Astana, and got lost various times. We ended up near a military base, and after asking for directions two military police cars decided to show us the way. However, one of then ran out of petrol and we had to top it up from a jerry can; but they sent ua on oir way in the right direction. We habe now done just under 500 kms to just past Pavlodar. We've been joined by 2 more teams and are now an 8 vehicle convoy

Astana, Kazakhstan

Been wandering around the city, a kind of Asian Milton Keynes x 10. Walked over this morning to what we are calling the 'big tent' a massive structure designed by Norman Foster. It contains... a shopping centre. Still it allowed me to stock up on tinned food and water for the next phase of the trip. Walked over with Joe and Arun from the mad hatters, speculating on how well our vehicles will stand up to the next lot of bad roads. We've also heard of big delays on the Russian-Mongolian border. Hmmmm. I'm thinking of getting the trans-Siberian railway back, will need to get a Russian transit visa.

Astana, Kazakhstan

Had a good night's sleep and now contemplating the most challenging bit of the journey in terms of terrain. We are at least beyond the half way point - 6,000 plus miles on the clock.