Day 15 - Jaisalmer Finish line - 26th September

Woken up by the sun and in high sleepy spirits, we are all a little buzzed, sad and excited for our journey to be over.  100km to go and the silliness begins.  Hanging out the side of our little rickshaws, driving side by side down the highway, photos and eagerness to arrive.

With 5 km to Jaisalmer we are ready and drive in ready to pass the finish line, only to be turned away by police saying there is a VIP in the fort and we cant make it up to the finish line.  Escorted by a rickshaw friend on a motorbike we reach a nearby hotel with a little bit of a let down not dragging eachother over the finish line for our grand victory.  Nevertheless, we celebrated with a beer at 10am, which turned out to be a mistake as Tiss and I slowly declined due to the 40 degree heat and a little fever which started lingering.  A lay down and a cold shower later, we missed the final cricket match but made it in our rickshaws for the parade through the city which was the most fun and funny event of the trip.   Great footage of western louts riding on top of rickshaws and beeping and waving to all in the street gawking at our craziness.  Great times and finish altogether in an aboned sand patch to cheer and celebrate our victory.  

Dehydrated and feeling average, we head back for another snooze and to rejuvenate for the after party.  Great times, dancing and fireworks to finish our evening and fantastic adventure.  Cant wait for another one!!!!!

Day 14 - Jodhpur - 25th September

Welcome to the blue city!  Rajahstan is full of forts and palaces and desert vibes, and it is such a relief to be out o the rain and into the familiar dry heat.  Vaughan is feeling so much better and we all head off to check for brekky in the main centre, on a roof top restaurant with incredible views of the the fort behind us.  Aiming to hit the road by lunch time we try our best to get moving, but quickly discover Rajahstani time is much like Broome time - slow and steady, so we must go with it.

Spent 2 hours in the fort with our audio head sets and fascinated and relaxed we hit the speed button and get our booties in gear as it is nearing 2pm and we arent on the road.  Back in the rickshaw and trying to make some miles, with only 280 km left of thewhole trip, we stop and take a promised 15 minute lunch which turned into an hour and on the road by 4pm!!

We do a solid 180km to pull up on the side of the road 100 km east of our finish line.  Deciding to rough and camp under the desert stars, we choose to pull out our sleeping bags and after a couple of swigs, pass out for a very rough sleep.....

Day 13 - to Jodhpur - 24th September

Up and out by 6.30, awesome effort as we have our longest drive to date - 340km.  Thank god for the carbi cleanout as we can now reach a powerful speed of 60 km/h!!!!!  Impecable timing and Vaugan is now feeling rotten, with a temperature and bad belly, not much good for anything, so i must power on and drive this trip.  A couple of no-doze to kick start the morning (thanks mikey and krish) and some major traffic chaos, i am pumped and ready to roll.  Poor Vaughan kept his thoughts to himself, as I weaved in and out of potholes and dodged trucks which dominated the whole highway.  More than one up the side of the road tactic, took us out of the density of trucks and a few too many rally moves and suicide calls left Krash naming me "Balsy Beth". 

No major stopping, just a little nibble on the road ,and we managed to leave behind the trucks as the road began to smooth.  A couple more no-doze to perk me up, and a mammoth 10 hours straight driving carried us to Jodhpur around 5pm.  Great navigating by Tash, which led us to another amazing retreat, Rajahstani guest house which looked like it came from Italy.  Nearly ready to pass out and coming down from the no-doze, with Vaughan feverish and breathing freely again after sleeping sporadically all day in the back of the rickshaw, we found ourselves in another beautiful room and lazing by the pool to rejuvenate the senses. 

Day 12 - Jaipur - 23rd September

Another sleep in and lazy breakfast by the pool, found us unwinding and already feeling the end of the trip is here.  We take our times to head into the pink city and the main centre.  Filled with traffic and touts, noise and incense filled air, colours of spices and pasta, textiles and buildings.  A very happening and full on space and we wandered absorbing our surroundings for some time.  Vaughan headed off as he was not feeling too crash, and tiss tash and I headed into to check out a palace in the main square.

Shopping for fireworks, rags and wire for the little rickshaws and I saw myself wandering home to leave tiss and tash to check out the observatory.  Vaughan tinkered with the rickshaw which was fantastic, as there was a spider web which seems to have been causing a blockage in the carbi ??  Another delicious dinner meal and early to bed for a big drive the next day

Day 11 - onto Jaipur - 22nd September

Another early morning with very soar and seedy heads, we munched our buffet breakfast and hit the road on a mission to get to Jaipur as early as possible so we could relax and enjoy the hot weather at last.  What an incredible day, as much of the main highway was blocked for the baton relay for the commonwealth games, and we passed by hundreds of school children all eagerly awaiting the major event.  We felt like celebraties as we tooted our horns and waved to all the children of all ages on the side of the road. 

After stopping for Krash to catch up, we were mobbed for a group of 3 year old boys who were wanting Vaughan to take a photo of them and as they were following him away from the car another group surrounded the rickshaw where i was sitting and there was no escape.  By the time Vaughan arrived back the boys were offering me flowers and blowing me kisses.  I could no longer see out of the rickshaw so i started the engine and got a rolling.  Magic, and this continued for at least half an hour as we drove down the highway feeling like celebraties, received with joyful faces and waves from all.

We arrived in Jaipur, the capital of Rajahstan, only to find ourselves in a traffic jam, completely separated from Krash, who were in front by 200 metres.  Tash and I got out to see what the commotion was, and see if we could somehow get out, as the commonwealth games baton relay jogged pass for us to catch a glimpse!! Ha, stoked, and we turn around to see our boys on top of their rickshaws amongst a jam packed street, yelling at eachother and giggling with joy.  Great photo.

We arrive at our AMAZING villa hotel, with a magnificant pool and fantastic rooms and bathrooms, which we havent experienced the whole trip.  What a treat!

Day 9 - to Agra - 20th September

Late start - 8am on the road and into chaos.  Nearly got squashed by a truck and had major struggle trying to keep up with Krash who have now decided to drive like Indian people... hard fast aggressive and get out of the way we're coming through!!  Got out in one piece and back onto the major highway which is so fantastic.  Totally prepared for the rains now, and everything is water proofed before we hit the road.  We have this down packed now.  A long day ahead, and Krash try and get their breaks fixed with no luck, and some crew worked on our exhaust to keep it in, only for it to have ended up wose an hour down the road. 

More smiles and friendly locals wishing us well, and full slog to get to Agra before night fall.  After much deliberation of where to stay, and being told we were going to be reported to the tourist commission for walking out on a horrible hotel, we arrive at a plush yummy hot water BIG beds, roof top bar hotel full of other rickshawers and excited to have a break from the local reality... 

Day 8 - To Agra to see the Taj - 19th September

Earliest morning so far, to enjoy the marvel and wonder of the Ganges River on Sunrise... If you could call it that.  Still so many clouds in the sky and the ganges is reaching near critical point due to the terrential rains.  We take an hour and a half boat ride up the sacred river and pass by the spot where bodies are being cremated daily, as we observe the ashes being dumped in a big pileto the left for????   Swarms of people bathing in one of the dirtiest rivers in the world, as they believe this cleanses them, and is a ritual for many in this area.  A lovely peaceful break from the chaos of the city, and a body drists by wrapped in swads as we end our journey...!! hmmm time to leave.

Pack up and get scammed by one of our ever so helpful guides, but that is the spice of this unique centre and without their guidance we would have been completely out of our depths.  Out of the city and back on the road again, where we are delighted to find a 2 lane manicured highway to coast us to Agra.  Not without the rains though, and some amazing photos were captured as the front moved in over the fields of corn and sugar can and our little rickshaws!  POW!  And everything is packed away again, soaked right through again and a long cautious drive right through to midnight to Kanpur to rest our weary heads in the first full sized real king size bed so far....!! Simple pleasures.

Day 7 - Varanasi - 18th September

Up and on the road by 6.30 which is great! Until it takes us an hour and a half to get out of Gorakhpur...  Half an hour in the wrong direction and then back on the main road, after receiving a mud map from a helpful local and being mobbed by school kids all so keen to chat and check out our rides.  Amazed faces as the girls drive the tuk tuks, and onward to Varanasi.

A few stops to adjust our exhaust which keeps falling off and to clean out the carbi again, as have now managed to sit on 50 comfortably after the last clean out and air filter clean.  Always welcome a break to have a chat with eachother and paint some more places on Krash's rickshaw.  100 km and a slow start later we arrive in Varanasi mid arvo to the most chaotic traffic to date.  The curtains go up once again, and the drivers become more aggressive and more condensed as we drive aimlessly through the crowded streets.  The boys are driving incredibly well and the girls in the back are trying to breathe and not scream every time there is a way too close near miss. 

Traffic police have become our best friends and after holding up mountains of traffic and being surrounded by intense melodic beeping Krash pick up a traffice policeman to help us find our way through the madness.  He hops out and they adopt another foreign passenger who helps us weave our way to a street where the girls must leave the boys and attempt to sind a hotel through the crazy labrynth of alleys of Varanasi.  Up hill, round and round, through public open urinals, market stalls, cows feeding on rubbish, cow poo, steps, up, down, more markets ooh that looks nice, shit keep going, focus hotel, and there we find the one we asked for on the Ganges.  No rooms, poo, crap, oh but our friendly guide knows a great place to stay, how coincidental, and so round and round up and down back through the maze to another, fair hotel with an amazing terrace and view of the famous ganges River.  Lets do it.

Back to the boys, where Vaughan has disappeared and decided to come find us??????!!!! Ha we laugh and try to relax in the hectic traffic.  Upon his return we know have 2 touts, i mean guides who show us where to park our very precious vehicles...

20 minutes of up and down round and round with our packs later we ahhhhhh have a beer on the terrace and admire the view.   Amazing intense fascinating Varanasi

Day 6 - Back to India on Route for Varanasi - 17th September

Lets get out of here before the rains begin!  Back to the border we go with the idea we may get to see the birthplace of Buddha, but after travelling 4 km in 20 mins we decide to return to the border and get out of Nepal and travel as far as possible to Varanasi as possible. Making good time and an easy border crossing we think it may be possible to actually get there in one day.... but then we are in India now, and the roads are full of bottomless potholes and 13 year old drivers and cows acting as a medium strip and people walking on the highway as if its a footpath.... So the pace slows, and the towns become bigger and the trucks drive straight toward you waiting for you to get out of their way and the horns peirce your ears as the traffic passes by in a wild fury of aggressive, defensive driving with vehicles for 2 full of 10 people, and they are still smiling... still waving and still shocked to see a westener in the back, and then oh my god theres one driving!  We are forever taking photos of the happy faces and unusual sights, and then we become the photo.  People pulling out their phones and asking for photos of us, as mobs of curious spectators gather round to see what we have down to our pimping ride...

Being in a foreign country, we are always amazed at the change in lifestyle, amazed at how they drive, what they wear, how they do things, and it is too funny to have these people look at us with the same wonder and amazement.  Never have we felt threatened or worried about our gear, although cautious none of us have felt danger.... Yet.  

We arrive at the large town of Gorahkpur, about 100km from Varanasi.  We had heard and read Varanasi is in your face India, and we didnt want to arrive in the dark, so we found this town not far and decided we would crash for the night..   I dont think any of us could have prepared ourselves for the onslaught we felt as we drove in to Gorakhpur.  Chaos times 20 and as the sun was setting and we had no idea how to orient ourslelves we found Indian traffic amazing.  The curtains we had to cover our bags in the back went up and I found myself a little uncomfortable about pulling out the big camera to display for all eyes to see.  Following eachother through traffic at night when you have no idea which direction to turn flooded us with tired emotions and excited adrenalin at the same time. Narrow streets, the lonely planet and a gps to guide us, we found ourselves at a flooded dead end and the easiest way to find our way was to ask those in the know... the locals. half an hour later we found what was the best hotel in a very grotty bad bunch and after a quick side of the road freshly cooked tahli had a fantastic sleep in a not so fantastic bed.

Day 4 - Chitwan National Park Sauraha 15th September

Another early start and over half way to our goal of Chitwan National Park - Sauraha, we were ready to roll.  The roads in Nepal were an amazing improvement to India, allowing us to cover nearly 200 km a day Thank God!  The only hiccup being our rickshaw doesnt seem to like going over 40km/h... This made for a very cruisy driving speed, and even more interesting was no brake lights.... especially when Krash are following us and they have no breaks.

Towns are few and far between and some amazing photography was made as we passed the swarms of children and women hunting and gathering... Smooth sailing till our lunch stop not far from the national park.... and then the sky opened up AGAIN. Aaaaaahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh Boof smack fast furious terrential rains that seemed to clear the highway of every vehicle except the 2 foreign rickshaws driving blind on unfamiliar winding roads.

But still people are laughing and waving at us as we splash them and the children just steal your heart with the joy in their eyes as you stick your hand out to do a drive by high 5!  Such a contrast to the misery in westerners faces when it rains, as their mood darkens and glooms.  Loads of children walking home from school and chatting and laughing as the rain soaks them through, and the women and children outside using this precious resource to fill their buckets and wash themselves in the rare fresh water....

And then 4 long hours later we pass 4 other fellow rickshawers going in the opposite direction, which is a great indication we are too, so a u-turn and another hour into sunset we arrive at a little hotel in the national park, where there are a number of other rickshawers staying.... and another boozy night begins.