Final Thoughts
We would like to thank all the well wishers and the donors to Frank Water.
While this was certainly a personal adventure, the social aspect of collecting money for clean water for kids definitely gave us motivation to make sure that we complete the journey while spreading the word.
Whenever we stopped and people talked to us, we pointed them to the Frank Water project and the most common reaction was - we did not know about this and it is a noble cause.Â
In terms of experience, it is hard to put the adventure in words:
- renewal of old friendships
- freedom of the road
- handling the unplanned day
- figuring out things on the spot
- enjoying the local food
- talking to cops, petrol station guys (and gals in Kerala), and others
- asking for directions as well as hotels and places to eat
- seeing friends and family while spreading the word about adventureÂ
The list can go on........
In terms of concrete data -
- drove more than 2500 KMs
- used less than 100 litres of petrol
Day by day route is available at http://www.a-trip.com/users/home/19724Â
And all of this in Our Princess which is supposed to have NOT been designed for this kind of journey.
Our experience has been completely different.
We did NOT have a single major failure. All the perceived failures were because we were told to expect them.
We did not change tires, the engine did not sieze, the transmission did not break down, none of the disasters we were imagining.
We did not test the machine to extreme because we took breaks every few hours and also made sure that right amount and quality of oil is added. In addition, we did get it serviced half way through the journey as was recommended in Jaisalmer.Â
The major failure was the luggage carrier which broke down twice due to weight and stress on it as well as the quality of welding.
The odometer stopped working after a minor off-the-road driving and we kept manual notes on petrol added.
In summary, we are ready for the next adventure which will also be of the same kind - personal challenge as well as the important component of charitable cause like Frank Water.
Thanks to Adventurist guys for coming up with this model which combines the two aspects - personal and charitable. See the details of their noble work so far at [http://bit.ly/A1cVVR](http://bit.ly/A1cVVR)
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Day 15
Satish was woken up at 5 AM by his sister Sunanda & her family who wanted to be part of the finish line and hence had travelled from Tirupati overnight.
The breakfast was all kinds of sweets including Ghevar - a traditional Marwari sweet, prasad from Tirupati temple, and Laddus of different kind.
Most of the morning went in talking and getting ready for the last trip of Our Princess.
Another rickshaw was hired to show the alternate way to get to Fort Kochi (since we knew that we will definitely not be able to convince the cops one more time to allow us on the flyover) as well as to accomodate 7 people travelling to Parade Ground.
The small lanes and potholes were the final test of Abhijit's driving ability as he was following the hired rickshaw driver. And we were really really happy that previous night, we were not forced to discover this alternate route.
An hour of driving through Kochi brought us to Parade Ground where a total of 55 teams had made by the time.
Matt clearly had hangover from the party previous evening but did take a few pictures of us.
One final walk around the grounds to admire all the rickshaws which had made the journey and more pictures ended the adventure for us.
And it was time to look for lunch.
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Day 14
With only 200 KMs to go, we decided to get an early start - 7 in the morning. The change was refreshing and the sunrise was enjoyable. Only regret was that we did not do it early enough in the trip and will not be able to do it again in company of Our Princess.
The by-pass road was without much traffic and Satish was given free rein to keep moving at any speed he wanted to.
Traditional Kerala breakfast of Appam, Idi Appam, and Roti were enjoyed at Hotel Malabar on the way. And debate on whether to continue on the highway or the alternate rural route via Guruvayoor was resolved. Couple of hours of highway driving naturally led to picking Guruvayoor road since Atul definitely wanted to visit the place and we did not want to make another trip next day from Kochi.
Atul & Abhijit went to the temple while Satish enjoyed the hustle bustle of the square. When it was Satish's turn to visit the temple, based upon feedback from team mates and his past choice of visiting the temples as couple when Neeta wants to visit them as well, he skipped the visit to inner sanctum and everyone enjoyed refreshing coconut water as it was getting hot.
The road after Guruvayoor turned into small two small unmarked lanes with plenty of traffic. But now it was not challanging for anyone to tackle them. Lunch was in order and once more asking locals for 'ordinary meals' resulted into Kerala Thali with unlimited helpings of vegetables, papadam, rice, and pickles while local sadhu kept guard over rickshaw.
Really small one lane bridges over backwater canals indicated our coming closer to Kochi. Multiple people directed us to Vypin Ferry in order to get to Parade Ground at Kochi Fort.
Our Princess had fun travelling in the ferry alongwith multiple motorcycles, tow truck, couple of cars, and lots of people.
Parade ground was only couple of kilometers from the ferry terminal but we had to ask 5-6 times for directions.
Reaching finish line around 4 PM was an emotional as well as exciting moment. Going from totally unknown and unplanned to reaching the destination in one piece while having a blast of our lifetime is something we will cherish for rest of our life.
After signing the finish line banner, we had another journey to make - from finish line to RBI quarters in Kaloor where we had booked for two nights.
Once again Abhijit's talent of profressional rickshaw driver was called for. The 12 KMs journey was slow and painful since the commuter traffic was in full swing.
The final stretch of reaching the RBI quarters was a 5 minute negotiation with local traffic cops since two and three wheelers were not allowed on the flyover. But they did make an exception for us for one time and we were unpacking Our Princess for the last time at around 5:30.
After freshing up, celebration was in order and we found the perfect place for take out food after asking multiple people - Mubarak. The place was beaming with people picking up their orders and we had hard time choosing only a few dishes we would be able to taste in one sitting.
The reminishing continued late in night and we also knew that we had one last trip in Our Princess back to Kochi Fort to return her to right place.
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Finish Line
Reached finish line at 16:01 on 14th.
Adventure is over but memories will always remain.
Thanks to all the well wisher and help given by countless number of known and unknown people of this country.Â
Day 13
After slow start due to delays in breakfast of Dosa at J K Residency, we decided to take the back road instead of the highway.
The road immediately turned to pot holes and up & downs. But the drive was enjoyable due to the abundant natural beauty and small towns.
Few kilometers from Kasargod, we saw a small beach with boats and lot of people so we had to stop even though it was barely half an hour into the day.
The auction of fresh catch was in full swing. The boats were coming in. The fisherman and fisherwoman were haggling and sorting out the catch to be sold in the market in few hours. The sea birds were in abundance trying to steal a fish here and there from the piles for an easy meal. Satish did not want to leave but was forced to move forward if we were to reach our destination at a decent hour.
Soon we were back on highway because of the directions given to us – everyone wants to travel fast and assumes same about everyone else.
Kannur was full of narrow roads and tons of vehicles. Navigating it was painful and slow but progress was being made and directions were being asked multiple times to make sure we were on right path.
At junction outside the town, for a change, we were told to take the back road since a flyover was being constructed on the highway.
Lunch was being searched for and nothing interesting was coming into view. Luckily, a scooter guy asked whether we wanted ‘ordinary meal’ and piloted us to the perfect place.
No name small mess serving awesome lunch to locals including the rickshaw drivers. Simple local food – rice, sambar of two kinds, three vegetables, fish if you want. And these tasty things being served multiple times out of steel vessels on banana leaves. We ate three times our share and it took Satish back to his Bangalore days.
As we were getting closer to Kozhikode, the traffic was becoming worse. Every fly over was a traffic jam. The local bus drivers were aggressively overtaking and then immediately stopping in front of you to let passengers get in and get out. And all this was going on two lane two way national highway. We wondered which was worse – 6 lane highway, Pune city traffic or Kerala two narrow lane with aggressive drivers.
At one of the traffic jams while we were waiting, a guy on mtorcycle stopped next to us and was holding a wallet in his hand. Satish and Abhijit immediately recognized it andc both together said - 'it is mine'. Abhijit came out of the rickshaw to take the wallet but four more people came out of the jeep behind and pulled it away from him. His ID card was pulled out of the wallet and after confirming that the wallet belonged to him, he was handed over the priceless possesion. And then asked to make sure that everything was inside.
The wallet decided to part Abhijit's pocket due to all the pot holes and the jeep guys noticed, picked it up, then asked the motorcycle guy to follow us the give it to us. An experience which will go into the pile of human goodness stories we have always encountered in our life.Â
Abhijit’s driving into Kozhikode was tested due to the commuter traffic adding to the mix. Metro tourist home in the middle of the commercial hub of Kozhikode was picked as the place to stay. But in order to get Our Princess to the place, Abhijit and Satish had to make a few kilometer U turn due to one way traffic.
And half a kilometer from hotel, Our Princess stopped in the middle of traffic. We had run out of petrol but the petrol can had some and there were few petrol stations.
‘Dakshin The Veg’ was the place for simple of dinner daal roti and ice cream.
Now the last leg of the journey is left before parting with Our PrincessÂ
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Day 12
The sunrise at Kumta was enjoyable and more bird watching from window was called for.
Coming out of Kumta, Atul made sure that he takes enough pictures of the town for his friend Dr Kumta.Â
Satish was flying towards Muredeshwar since he was given free rein in the cool and crisp weather which is quite suitable for Our Princess' health.
On the highway, we stopped to take picture of the Muredeshwar gate and continue forward to cover the distance (and keep some time on hand in case Our Princess wanted to take rest during hot afternoon weather). Sangita had told us that we will enjoy it but we had to weigh it against covering the distance.
As we were starting to move forward, one local came to us and told that we should go in since the temple is famous and only 2 KMs from the highway. The lord's call came and we went it.
As the majestic Shiva statue came into view we knew that the unknown hand is at play to make sure that we dont miss the awesome temple. The entrance is massive and the idols are beautifully carved out of stone as well as covered in gold. Everyone should go there for the temple architecture, largeness, seaside beauty, fishing boats, pilgrims, and stalls catering to them.
We did see some of our team mates at the temple as well as some tourist from other countries but bulk of the pilgrims were natives in their native constumes.Â
After lord's blessings, tiffin was called for. The beachside udipi restaurant provided healthy and sumptuous breakfast of Idli, Vada, Upma, and Sheera topped by Coffee.
Satish took the wheels again while Atul and Abhijit were enjoying the coastal Karnataka beauty - coconut trees, rice fields, water bodies, and fresh cool and crisp air. The beatuy was such that Abhijit could not help capture it on tape for the first time since the trip.
The road started becoming rougher and full of potholes. Every once in a while road will become better and Atul would say that he will drive but within few hundred meters the potholes would start. And this continued throughout the day.
A tea break and switching of controls was called for. Abhijit started speeding whenever he could find smooth surface. Satish started capturing the colorful banglows passing by. Heat was increasing and Our Princess decided to teach us a lesson and stopped.
Our reaction was to let her cool down before starting but on opening the back side, the issue was clearly noticeable. The spark plug cable had come out and it must have been due to all the suffering Our Princess went through due to the road condition. Abhijit tightned the cable and once again, we were on the road.
We passed Mangalore port and noticed the large number of massive wooden logs piled up. Stop at the petrol station had an explanation for them - India imports wood from Malaysia and Indonesia to build the infrastructure - talk about the changes and globalization. An hour later, another stop was called for tea and the NIT Surthakal college professor having tea at the stall told us that instead of stopping in Ullal, we should proceed to Kasargod since the coastal beauty will continue and smaller town of Kasargod will be better and closer to our destination.
Going through Mangalore city towards Kerala border was painful due to traffic and road conditions but Abhijit's able hands handle the whole process very well.
Entering into Kerala, the change was noticeable - two lane highway, nice bunglows due to Gulf money, clear costumes to indicate whether you are Hindu or Muslim. But the drive was enjoyable since the sun was setting and light was playing wonders.
Checking into J K Presidency at Kasargod was a project since rickshaw and Satish were waiting while others were trying to find a different hotel. And the crowd was gathering to find out about Our Princess.
After bath, we were directed towards Indian Coffee House for local Kerala food (instead of the regular menu at the hotel). Simply but wonderfully prepared Chicken Masala, and Biryani with Rice and Chapati finished the day.
And now we are looking at 379 KMs to our destination of Cochi.Â
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Day 11
Being rest day at Goa, we woke up late. The sea was calm & no one was on the beach. Satish went for walk and enjoyed the fresh air and early morning rituals of the nearby fishing village.
While we were plannin the day, all of us felt that it is better to leave today as we have to still cover distance of about 850 kms. This was fastest and unanimous decision. After breakfast of Pav Bhaji, Bread Butter, Banana and Coffee (favorite of Bengali tourists as far as we could see from the other tables), we checked out of Colva Residency at about 10 AM. Udit had suggested that we see some good beaches. But we found out that we will need to go up north by 70 km. Instead we headed south based upon advice given by a local when Satish took our princess to a dead end. Abhijit took the seat to bring princess out of Margao and later Satish and Atul were driving on NH17 which has ups and downs and minor curves.
At about 40 Km from Margao, we turned towrads Palolem Beach and scenic beauty of nature stopped us spellbound. Atul had gone crazy about variety of birds and could not resist but marvel at them while soaking in the beauty. Abhijit started walking towards the beach. Satish took princess to the beach. Polalem beach is small compared to Colva and is invaded by tourists from various countries except India.
Atul told that he has to capture beauty of very small town Kumta.
Day 10
The calm & cool morning of Sawantwadi was left behind for winding road, small towns, and totally green countryside.
The breakfast was at roadside ‘Punjab-Da-Dhaba’ and on the menu was Aloo Paratha and Dahi but the real treat was the birds – Atul went to the water body behind the dhaba and saw wagtail and searched for others.
The no man’s land between Maharashtra and Goa border was one of the real bad roads we have encountered but as soon as we crossed into Goa, the road was as smooth as butter. We also got connected back to RR team since we saw another team on the same dusty road.
As traffic increased into Panjim, Abhijit took over once more. As soon as we crossed Madovi river, Satish started recognizing the place. Directions to Raibunder were simple so we decided to go and look for the old house where he spent one year at age of 5.
At the junction of Mapusa road and Raibunder, the old shop keeper confirmed the partial recognition by Satish and it was emotional moment for him to see the old house still standing. But it was time to move on to the modern world leaving behind rejuvenated memories.
Even though the road to Colva via Murgoan was having some traffic, Atul was handling it very well and others were enjoying the beauty of Goa it is very well known for. As we were approaching Colva, Satish was getting apprehensive about the commercialization clearly noticeable. But the Colva Presidency resort location was picture perfect – on the beach front and colorful. Thanks to Sandhya again for picking the place for us and exposing us to great location which will be useful next time we come here.
The late afternoon and small breakfast made us real hungry and we darted towards the first place we saw – Kentukee. Moment we walked in, we knew it was not a right choice but none-the-less had Calamari and King Fish (Surmai). Walking onto beach was real game changer – wide beach with clear white sand going on for miles in either direction. Satish now knew why Goa beaches are well known and why even after loads of tourist you never feel like you are in Outer Banks, North Carolina.
We started walking down south stopping at couple of beachside restaurants and resorts catering to highly targeted crowd of German and Russian tourist enjoying the natural beauty Goa beaches have to offer.
As sun was setting down, we decided to walk back towards the hotel. Once Abhijit decided to wet his feet, he was walking in knee deep water and was deep in thought whereas Satish & Atul were trying to capture the wonderful sunset on film – something which can never ever be achieved.
As it turned dark, it was time to freshen up, and have dinner. Having walked a few kilometers, we were not in mood to search for another place to eat and decided to eat at the resort itself. Bengali waiter (since almost all the families staying at Colva Residency are from West Bengal) served us from regular menu offered.
It was time to hit the bed and get ready for the next day to enjoy the Goa beaches and food.
Day 9
Atul’s friend and ‘Banda from Festo’, Sekhar Patil came to see him and give us expert advice on tackling the challenge ahead – crossing the majestic Sahayadri Mountains to get to the coast from Kolhapur. He gave us a Map to follow.
It did turn colder once we were out of Kolhapur and we were glad to have not completely changed into warm weather clothing.
Great breakfast at ‘Amar Only Veg’ of Dahi Missal and Mysore Dosa was topped off with nice tea. We had small time bird watching.
Arguments and confusion both within the team as well as people giving us directions on which turn to take to go to Sawantwadi resulted in the first U turn of the trip. All the petrol saved on going downhill was consumed in coming back up the hill to go on small road towards Amboli.
After long time we were again on the real roads of India which joins the villages. As soon as we took the road, the first reaction was where the nicely paved road we were expecting is. But soon the reaction was replaced by – this is what real adventure should be in order to see the real India.
The potholes, the ups and downs, and two way traffic on unmarked small road gave good driving experience to both Atul & Satish. Abhi certified that now Atul can get permanent license. But the real treat was the countryside which is still unspoiled by the multi-lane highway passing a few kilometers from the small villages on Amboli fork on Kolhapur-Belgaum highway. Midway we had a place where four Talukas two from Karnataka and two of Maharashtra were meeting.
Abhijit’s sharp eyes located small earthen dam outside Ajara and we were in for treat of cool breeze and multiple birds enjoying the weather. Satish almost toppled our princess trying to bring it up the dam for a shot. But better judgement prevailed and our princess was next to water via an easier route.
Stop before tackling the Amboli Ghat resulted in splurging on ‘SolKadhi’ at small shop.
The breathtaking views, the monkeys, sharp turns, and Abhijit’s controlled driving made the Amboli Ghat a memorable experience. Some day we will come back to hikes in these magnificent mountain ranges.
As soon as we crossed the Sahayadri, we were into the Konkan which is a real hidden gem to be discovered and spoiled by the commercialization.
The variety of flora and fauna is amazing. The crisp and fresh air is mind and soul refreshing. The small villages are picturesque.
Sawantwadi was in sight around 5 PM and we decided to enjoy the town instead of rushing to Panjim.
Kamat Hotel provided a great room with awesome lake view. This hotel in best example of cooperation between Nagar Palika, MTDC. It is PPPP model.While Abhijit was getting ready, Atul and Satish went to market for shopping. And once more the simplicity of rural India was at display. Small shops, crowded vegetable market, people bustling around quietly was a stark contrast to the malls and mega theatres of the metropolis Pune as well as Kolhapur.
Malvani dinner was essential and Bhalekar mess now called as Mahalaxmi Bhojanalaya was crowded even at 10 PM. Simply prepared seafood with freshly made chapattis were being consumed in large quantities. We joined the crowd and had our share before calling it a day.Special Kokani dishes like Pompfret, Surmai, Tisare were very tasty.
Satish has uploaded some pictures from trip so far to give you an idea of the trip so far.
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Day 8
Half asleep, we got ready to start the journey. This time we had help from friends to load up our princess.
As we were moving bags out of room, people started showing up to see us off. One of them told about leakage underneath the rickshaw. Opening the back, we noticed that petrol cap was missing. Moving it out of the parking spot and looking at fuel line in visible light confirmed that someone had removed the petrol from the tank.
Petty theft was at hand by some 'Puneri Bhamta' who not only took out the petrol but also took the cap. Since the person doing the deed did not know about our petrol reserve in can, we were in a decent position to start.
Some of the same friends from previous night and some more who could not make started gathering at 7:30 in the morning, something not natural for most of us; particularly on Sunday.
Everyone present to send us off on our way signed our pricness and wished us good luck. Amita's scooter and Rajiv & Bhosale's car were piloting us towards the highway. At the bifurcation, Sangita, Narendra, and Vaidehi were waiting for final goodbye.
Getting back on road after the welcome given to us in Pune was realy difficult. But soon we were crossing the Katraj via the 1.5 KM tunnel in place of the ghat which we used to go via on bicycle in good old days.
As soon as we crossed the tunnel and left behind the metropolis of Pune, the scenery changed completely. Majestic mountains, lush green fields, and cool breeze was welcoming us towards Kolhapur.
Atul immediately recognized the Sri Ram Vada Pav Center because of tens of cars parked on the roadside and we had the big breakfast with hundreds of other people - vada pav, sabudana vada, and bhajji.
As day was warming up, by mid-afternoon it was hot enough now to debate whether we need to change our startegy of keep on driving. And we did take a longer break for tea in a small roadside shop.
Soon we were in Satara, and decided on proceeding to Kolhapur instead of stopping in Karad or another place.
At some point in late afternoon, we stopped to enjoy the scenery - river flowing, moutains all around us, trees, birds, sugar cane fields, and brick makers laying piles and piles. And fellow team of G6 stopped by to our surprise since we had not seen anyone after leaving Mumbai highway. They told us that they enjoyed the Nashik vineyards as well as Pune and were going towards the same destination as us - Goa. They had 14 breakdowns but were still enjoying seeing the real India.
Before sunset, we were in Kolhapur city searching for a decent hotel. Again, strategy of asking other rickshaw drivers worked well.