Next Stop: Omsk, Mutha Russia
Ok, sorry for the delay. Even though the website has states we have not traveled any miles, its because weve been counting in Kilometers. And to day, were at about 9500km. When I left you the band (Sandmen) were all together headed east through Turkey. After Istanbul, which was really great, hard on our wallets, but something that had to be done, we set out. It took us a while to get going because of the gift exchange between the four of us and of course packing up with a small crowd around in the middle of the street. I dont remember if I told y'all but we exchanged gifts in order to make this 10000 mile road trip on scooters, just a bit more difficult. The idea was to gift something that was large, awkward, and difficult to keep on a motorbike, BUT we all decided it had to be lightweight, you know, for the bikes sake. And as democracy reigns supreme umoung the Sandmen, the votes were tallied and we must keep our gifts for the duration of the trip. I was very pleased with my gift. Since I have the worlds most disgusting mullet, and a dirty pink suit and have an awesomely American accent, the Brits thought it appropriate to get me a sweet guitar with a scull and crossbones on it. I love it. Its right handed and none of us know how to tune it. So that everytime someone asks me to play them a tune I have to break out the excuses and eventualy let whomever down. Thats a good gift. Alex recieved a very large Turkish flag with Ataturks face on it. Hes been wearing it as a cape everyday. Pretty awesome to see him put his fist foward on the motorbike and strike a superman pose while wearing a cape. Good gift. Alex and I went a different route with our gifts to the Brits. One, a large stuffed fawn, about 2 feet high while some sort of frame so that it doesnt bend at all. We thought it could double as a seat until the legs broke.  And poor, poor Jonah. We got Jonah something a bit more spectacular. It wasnt even for sale when we found it, but with our excellent bardering skills and our relentless good looks we got it. It was a 4 foot tall, armless manican, dressed as a woman child Turkish dancer. And let me tell ya, to see a grown man in a tuxedo, driving a moped covered in gear, with a cut-in-half manican (he had to, it wasnt gonna fit on the bike otherwise) drive down the road will keep you laughing inside your helmet...histerically. Thats a good gift, but for some reason I dont think he appreciated it too much...weird. Anywho we drove and camped a couple more wet nights in Turkish fields and jungles and got Trabzon. This is where Alex and I were to take the ferry to Sochi Russia. So we said goodbye to the Pizza Co for the time being with plans to meet back up in Rubtovsk Russia a couple weeks down the road. It took us a while but we found the ferry and soon found out that the next ferry was to leave in 6 days. No bueno. We camped one night in Trabzon at a place Alex and I have come to call it the Garden of Eden. It was high up in the mountains with a view of the sea. Wild blackberries, Apricots, hazelnuts and plenty of firewood kept us very satisified for the evening. That was one experience that I hope for everyone to experience sometime in your lives. One of the most spectatular sites Ive ever witnessed. And to hear the call to prayer while the sun goes down over the sea is more than special. Anywho the next day we decided to keep riding east along the coast and make it to Georgia, which took no time at all. It was a beautiful border crossing as well. Right on the beach with the mountains cutting off the road. we went through a long tunnel and stuck inbetween mountain was the border. Which turned out to be quite easy to get through. We made friends almost immediately with a border guard that was curious about what we were doing and he moved us up in line and told everyone what we were doing. I even got a smile from the lady immigration guard...thats a first. On the other side of the border we stop to take a few pictures and an old gypsy woman came up begging (which happens WAY TOO MUCH) but this one was quite cute. But I dont give themmoney, because well, I worked for mine, and they should do the same, but I did have a metal water bottle I had been trying to get rid of for some time, and after much convincing she took it. Mutually bebeficial, at least from my point of view. Geogia was for me, not enjoyable. we took the road up the coast and then the main road all the way across Georgia. Traffic and road conditions were the worst Ive seen on this trip. Construction every where, and combined with the overwhelming heat, made me miserable. But as always the eskimo Bruders pushed on, with the help of an old lady that came out and gave us a bottle of water at a time when it was obvious that we needed it. We struggle to find a campsite that night and settle for a damp cow field in the middle of a small town. There were some kids drinking near us and before we knew it they were offering some mysterious clear liquid out of an old pop bottle. We hear its rude to refuse a gift, so we joined them for a drink. It was one of single worst decisions of my life. This beverage was some sort of high grade petrol, mixed with terpintine and drain cleaner. Alex and I both gagged, felt weird and then were immediately hungover. I had to lay down and Alex and to go to the bathroom. This is not the last time this will happen, mind you. Lets just say Alex and I are slow learners. More on that later.We spent that rain-filled night reminding ourselves we chose to do this as a vacation and that it was fun. The next day was more terrible driving in sweltering heat and more bad traffic. As we made it into the mountain in the north it was getting dark and was about to rain. we found a campsite right off the side of the highways halfway up a mountain and watched the storm come up to the mountain and then be halted by it. We saw lightening and heard thunder, but never got a drop, much to my surprise. the next day was a good ride. all through the mountains, easily the highest altitude wave climbed. We saw snow and some beautiful scenes as we rose and rose and rose and kept rising. we climbed for what seemed to be days. We would crest one mountain just to find another behind it. Got some great pictures, and really pushed the bikes hard. By the way, the one major problem Ive been having with the bike is that my gear and fat butt stretch out a bike chain in minutes. And numersous mountain ranges and super long distances dont make it any better. I have ruined on chain, and since my bike doesnt exist in these countries, we now put together two russian chains to make one suitable. It said to last 3000 kms. Ive got 2000km on it now with 4500 to go. Concerned, definitely. You would think, "hey mike, youre in a big city now, go and fix it!" But remember this is a russian city in Siberia. They have nothing in them...nothing. trust me, weve looked. Anyway We will cross that broken chain bridge when we get to it. The border to Russia was in the mountains and beautiful. It went quite well except for one guard that started screaming at us initially for reasons we know not. We made friends with a chubby, smoking guard in blue camouflage, which helped us get through. Afterwards we had to find insurance which was fun (ps this was something we forgot in georgia...WHOOPS!) First there was a man selling it from his car, but luckily we had no cash and hos to go into Vladivladkaz to get cash, and by doing so we found an entire strip mall lined with insuance salesman and women. Needless to say we had a large crowd around us the entire time helping with translation and rate quotes and all things insurance. We settled for two nice ladies that thought we were cute and spent about 1200 rubles for a months insurance (about $50), and we are covered to the hilt. they gave us a stack of paperwork and we were on our way. We had decided to go to Georgia without withdrwing any georgian money, so we didnt eat well for the two days prior, so when we found a supermarket in town, we went for it sodas, breads, salads, candy bars, fruit, nuts and bubbly water. It was great. We drew quite a bit of attention outside the grocer, gorging ourselves and looking like bums next to a couple beat-up motorbikes. But we made some friends and had a 12000 calorie meal....Next blog in a couple minutes, I gotta get breakfast, and Ill be back to talk about Mutha Russia, and the Love/HATE relationship that is more literal than any Ive witnessed. more to come....
